Wirral Beekeepers
Polish Expedition 2006

July this year saw some 55 beekeepers and friends set off on what was to be a very interesting tour of Poland. Flying from Liverpool airport the travellers came from all over the North of England and were joined by a lady beekeeper from Lincoln who had previously travelled with us to Germany last year.

The group wearing their customary name badges showing a bee and bunch of grapes (Wine lovers), flew off with Wizzair a Hungarian airline which has shown a huge influx of travellers to and from Poland since joining the E.U.

We landed in a small airport called Katowice, a small military airbase north of Krakow and awaited to be picked up by our guide Sebastian who�s English was excellent. Boarding our Setra coach, the party set off to Krakow to begin our tour.

On arrival at Krakow with temperatures in the 90�s we walked into the city square. We were met with an amazing site, the square is one of the largest in Europe and surrounded by buildings dating back centuries. The church of St Mary with its towers reaching hundreds of feet was most impressive. Having four windows at the top where every hour a bugler sounds a call from each window. The legend goes that buglers were appointed to alert the people of Krakow of any pending invaders so that the city gates could be closed. One of the buglers was shot in the eye with an arrow and so the horn is sounded by one bugler from all four windows.

In the centre of the square stands a medieval market building called The Cloth Hall, housing craft shops with jewellers selling Amber, carved wooden gifts, and all manner of souvenirs. The square was buzzing with al fresco caf�s, bars and restaurants.

Our party finished lunch and set off on a tour of the old quarters with two ladies from the University who were excellent guides.

Following an overnight stop, we set off towards the South of Poland were we were to stay at Krynica, a spa town in the mountains.

On route we visited the World Heritage site at Auschwitz. Where we joined by our guides who walked us around the camps of Auschwitz and Birkanau talking us through the history. Although some of the party were a little apprehensive, we all agreed that we felt it our duty to pay our respects, and that by remembering, we will never forget.

Our next stop was to be Wadowice the birth place of Pope John Paul II. The town was very busy with its impressive onion topped church, our party headed for the local caf�s which sold a delicacy called Pope�s cake. A little like a custard slice with very sweet flaky pastry. Delicious!

We were extremely grateful for Sebastian�s help as the further south we travelled the language barrier became more prevalent. In fact we were quite celebrities in some places as people had never encountered English tourists before.

From the heavy industry of the North of Poland we began to see the farming as we headed south. Many families were working in the fields making hay stacks, and horses and ploughs took the place of any mechanical farm machinery. Along the way there were calls of �Bee Hives� as some eagle eyed travellers who were not dozing, spotted lines of hives coloured blue and yellow on the hill sides.

We arrived at Krynica late afternoon and settled into our hotel, high up the mountain side with magnificent views of the surrounding countryside and overlooking the town.

The following day was free to explore the town with its funicular railway, magnificent gardens and fountains, and the Spa house. Many of the old buildings in the town were made of wood and converted into hotels and guest houses.

In the town centre were stalls selling souvenirs and crafts. A honey stall stood in the main thoroughfare and sold wax candles, honey, brandy and other honey products belonging to Jack Nowak of Kamianna. The following day we travelled a short distance to Kamianna, the beekeeping village in the mountains. We were welcomed by Jack Nowak and his wife who remembered my wife and I from our previous visit. He wore a jacket heavily embroidered with local yarn, and we joined him in the wooden church to shelter from the heat. The church was adorned with painted bees above the altar, and was dedicated to the villagers who were driven out of the area by Russian ethnic cleansing. They were taken to Siberia with just one hours notice after the 2nd World War.

Mr. Nowak�s father had been given the job of curator of the church and a community of beekeeping had grown up in Kamianna. The hillside behind the church was surrounded by hives some blue, white and yellow as we had seen on our journey down, and some novelty hives of all shapes and sizes many carved with faces. In all Jack Nowak had over 2000 hives. He artificially inseminates his own queens to ensure they are suitable for the long winters and short summers in that area of Poland. Some of the party were able to watch Jack artificially inseminate the queens in his laboratory, a small room, which was dominated by the male members of our party! Later we browsed in the shop, and then went on a tour of the bottling plant. Jack Nowak is the beekeeper who supplies honey to the Vatican; the contract was made during Pope John Paul�s reign and continues today. With a fond farewell we set off to our second beekeeping venue. This being to the commercial venture of Bartnik, one of Poland�s largest honey producers. As we entered the gardens surrounding the plant, trucks laden with honey, were being brought in for extraction. The gardens had a host of interesting hives from medieval times to present and a large wooden statue of St Ambrose patron saint of beekeepers stood near to the entrance.

The party sat in the shade and Mr. Bartnik arrived with a huge comb of uncapped honey dew for the party to taste. This was washed down with bottles of honey brandy. Most of the party disappeared into the shop were many bargains were to be had. Bee suits for �15, smokers �6 and j hive tools �2. Although bees were flying everywhere, we were amazed that none came near the table were the comb honey sat. The party visited the bottling plant and the lab where the honey was tested prior to extraction.

With Sebastian translating Mr. Bartnik talked of Varroa, disease and beekeeping in Poland. He then presented me with a book called Hives and apiaries in Poland, which contains many photographs taken by himself.

During the week we crossed the border into Slovakia on route to the Zakopane National Park, the scenery was very picturesque. Our guide organised for the party to take a horse drawn cart ride to the top of the mountains. Little did we know it took 1-1/2 hours to reach the top!

When nearing the top the more agile members of the group led by Arthur Gillett (88 years young) hiked further to reach a beautiful lake with the summit as our backdrop. Needless to say the journey down was quicker as the horses trotted back. The party sang songs, much to the delight of the Polish hikers who had walked up and down the mountain.

Another day we visited the convent of Poor

Clare�s at Stary Sachs a lovely village a short drive away. We were met by a young priest who told us of the history of the convent via our interpreter. The church was magnificent with a golden pulpit some 20 feet high depicting the family tree of Jesus. The priest said a prayer for beekeepers, and then asked if we would sing a hymn of praise. My wife Elaine led the party as we sang All things bright and beautiful.

The last evening in the hotel the group danced to a local duo till the early hours and then set off the next day to travel north again. The hotel had to send out for another barrel of beer, and the staff said the bar takings were the best ever.

Our final stop off was a visit to the salt mines at Wieliczka including an amazing tour of the underground caverns with an English speaking guide. The highlight of the tour was the underground Cathedral, where the group was asked to sing to test the acoustics. We obliged by singing All things bright and beautiful again to an applause from the crowd below. The group sat down to a three course meal inside one of the caverns, which was very tasty and well received.

One week and 1000 miles later the party said their fond farewell�s to Sebastian, who was off to meet an American family for a week�s tour. He was truly an excellent guide. Our thanks also went to Stay Poland part of the tourist board that helped with travel arrangements.

We boarded the flight home after staying one more night in the Ibis Hotel.

All the travellers enjoyed the trip and we departed with the question �Where are we off to next year?�

Doug Jones

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